Archive for the ‘Cats’ Category

Pokey’s Adventure

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010

Many of you know my large black cat Pokey. He used to be the clinic cat here until he started attacking dogs–not good for public relations! So he came home to live with me–he still attacks dogs but mine usually deserve it. He also has acquired the ultimate bad habit of chasing cars. We live on a cul-de-sac and he will wait a few houses up and then dash out in front of my car, then meander up the driveway in front of me. Well a few weeks ago Katie and I were coming home late on a Saturday and Pokey jumped out in front of us. As we were inching up the driveway at cat pace we heard a bump. We jumped out to look but Pokey was nowhere to be found.

By Monday night we still had not seen him. We put posters up around the neighborhood, went out calling him, looked everywhere we could think. Katie was becoming distraught. Tuesday morning I called Harry Oakes–he is a search and rescue person in Longview, WA. He came down within a couple hours with 2 search and rescue dogs. They immediately got on Pokey’s scent and started tracking. The dogs can tell the difference between live, injured, and dead scent and this was a live scent, not badly injured. We tracked him through a neighbor’s yard, through the park, across a road, through some townhouses and ended at a locked RV parking storage. And there we were stuck. Harry recommended that I leave a urine trail from the RV storage to home (yes–pee in a spray bottle, dilute it, and leave a trail home). He said most animals will eventually follow a trail home in 5-7 days.

That was Tuesday, by Sunday we were starting to lose hope. Katie and I headed to the bus stop Monday morning and guess who was waiting–Pokey! He was limping pretty badly but seemed okay otherwise. So off to the clinic for some xrays. He’s got a fractured pelvis in two places but it is not displaced and should heal without surgery after 4-6 weeks of rest. Otherwise all is okay. So he now lives in my bedroom–in the lap of luxury, no dogs to harass, all the food and water he needs, and me to purr against and try to wake up at odd hours of the night.

Here’s some advice from Harry Oakes: if you have multiple pets comb each one, save the hair in a paper envelope, on the front write down vital information such as name, age, microchip number. Store the envelopes in a dry, cool area. That way if you ever need a scent for a track you have it all ready.  It was really interesting to watch the dogs get on the scent and follow it.

PVMA Pet Food and Supplies Drive

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010

Every year the PVMA (Portland Veterinary Medical Association) has held a holiday pet food and supplies drive. This year they have decided to move the drive to February in an effort to spread the giving out a bit. Because of recent large scale rescue efforts and the depletion of community pet food banks, there is a huge need for donations. Recipients of the donations will be the Portland Animal Welfare Team, The Feral Cat Coalition, The Cat Adoption Team, and several other area shelters.

We will have a container in the lobby for anyone that would like to donate.

Items needed:

  • unopened dry, canned or pouch foods–any good quality brand
  • new or gently used collars, leashes, harnesses
  • new dog or cat toys
  • new or gently used warm pet clothing–sweatshirts, raingear, etc.
  • towels/blankets (no dog or cat beds please)
  • over the counter products such as dental/oral care, shampoo and supplements, flea control products
  • general pet care supplies
  • medications, expired or unexpired, sealed or unsealed

They are not able to take pet carriers, crates or dog houses/igloos.

Please bring the supplies to the clinic any time between now and the end of February and we will deliver them to the PVMA. Thank you in advance for all donations.

February is National Dental Month–Save 15%!!

Friday, January 15th, 2010

February is national pet dental month–this is a great time to get your pet’s teeth cleaned and start on a home care plan of prevention. Dental health is SO important for the overall health of your pet.

The procedure of having a professional dental cleaning for your pet is much the same as when you go to the dentist for your cleaning. Except for one big difference…your pet must be under anesthetic. This is the only way to get a true cleaning. The best pet out there won’t allow us to use our instruments in their mouth for cleaning for 30-45 minutes or longer without protest.  And a true dental prophylaxis requires xrays as well. Many of the problems with an animal’s teeth are below the gumline. So while an anesthesia free cleaning by a groomer or other non-professional may sound good, it really does nothing for the health of the pet, and can lead to a false sense of security when there actually may be disease lurking in the mouth.

For a dental cleaning, your pet is dropped off fasted in the morning. The doctor does a complete exam (and blood work if necessary) and formulates an individual anesthetic plan. An intravenous catheter is placed and sedation and pan medication is given. Anesthesia is begun and monitors are put in place to keep track of heart rate, respiration, oxygen levels, and blood pressure. Fluids are given to keep the blood pressure at the right level. A trained technician cleans each tooth and polishes them. Then the doctor does a complete oral exam including probing, radiographs, and charting. If any teeth need extraction then a local anesthetic is given and the doctor proceeds with extraction. During the whole procedure your pet is kept on a warming unit, constantly monitored, with IV fluids running. Your pet is never left alone from start until he or she is fully awake back in it’s cushioned pen.

So call today to schedule your pet’s professional cleaning–It’s 15% off now to the end of February!! If you would like instructions on a home program for dental care please call to talk to a technician. We can also provide instructions and demonstrations on proper brushing techniques.

Periodontal Disease

Friday, January 15th, 2010

Periodontal disease is the number one disease of pets today. It is a diagnosis common to all pets, in all age groups, becoming more advanced as pets get older. This disease affects 85 percent of adult dogs and cats, but can strike young pets too. Yet it is very preventable. Factors that influence the development of oral disease include genetics, diet and home care. Veterinarians believe that periodic professional dental cleanings coupled with home dental care is a critical element of total healthcare for our pets. Periodontitis, inflammation of the tissues, and structures surrounding the teeth, not only causes “doggy breath” but also pain, discomfort and potential tooth loss. It is not normal for your pet’s mouth to have a severe odor. The by-product of bacteria produces this foul odor.

Dental disease generally begins with inflammation of the gums and accumulation of plaque on the teeth. Plaque is formed when bacteria combine with salivary debris. Tooth loss, gum bleeding, and pus between the teeth or at the gum line are indicators of advanced periodontal disease. A pet with periodontitis can send a bacterial shower into the blood-stream every time it chews. In turn, these bacteria can affect the heart valves, lungs, liver, and kidneys. A thorough oral exam is one of the most important parts of our comprehensive exam.
Many of our clients are surprised when we point out dental disease in their pets. Clinical signs of disease may include bad breath, excessive salivation, appetite changes, facial swelling, weight loss, pawing at the mouth, and behavioral shifts. Invariably, we suggest home dental care and perhaps professional dental care for your pets, depending on severity. Home dental care is a classic example of preventative medicine.
We can’t change the genetic code of your pet, but we can significantly slow the progression of dental disease through home care. We educate all puppy and kitten owners on basic teeth brushing techniques as part of routine grooming and training.

What Medications Can I Use At Home?

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

This is a tricky question that we get all the time. It’s very important to remember that dogs and cats are not miniature people–many human drugs can be very dangerous when given to our pets. The most notorious are aspirin, ibuprofen, and tylenol. We all have these medications at home and most of us routinely use them for ourselves without much thought. But a very small amount of any of them can be deadly to a cat! And all 3 can be very irritating to a dog’s intestines. We have much more effective and safe pain medications for our animals!

Benedryl has many uses in veterinary medicine. But the doses used are different than you would think. Pepto bismol can be dangerous because some animals can’t handle the salicylates it contains. Immodium is useful in some cases of diarrhea, but again the dose is different than for humans.

Does it seem like I’m being evasive? I am. The veterinary practice act states that I need a valid patient/client/vet relationship in order to give any advice. In essence if I give out advice about over-the-counter medications and something goes wrong, I can be held liable. So only patients that I have knowledge of get dosage information. This goes for our staff as well since they are an extension of myself. I routinely use and recommend many over-the-counter products, as well as nutritional supplements, but only when an animal is under my direct care. So by all means call to discuss at home remedies–so long as you are a current client with a current patient.

When Should I Bring My Pet To The Vet?

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

So many times we get phone calls wondering whether this symptom or that is normal or should be looked at. And we don’t mind these–this is what we are here for! But I wanted to give you some general guidelines of what to look for and when to seek a visit to see us.

Generally a healthy dog or cat that vomits or has diarrhea gets a 12-24 hour reprieve from a visit to the hospital. After all we all feel bad part of the time. What is most important is the overall general feel of the animal. Is he still bouncing of the walls but vomited this morning. Or is he lying in the corner moaning after vomiting 3 times and refusing to eat breakfast. The first case can wait and watch, the second should be seen. Also if there is history of eating something he shouldn’t or history of previous illness, a visit to the vet happens sooner rather than later. Diarrhea gets 48 hours and bland diet before a visit is warranted, unless you notice blood. And with any visit about diarrhea it is important to bring a fresh stool sample if possible. Bland diet consists of cooked chicken breast, cooked low fat hamburger, cooked white rice, and boiled potatoes.

Not eating depends on the animal. My lab stops eating for 24 hours and it’s no big deal. But I do know she’s not feeling well–because she’s a lab and they will eat through anything! Some animals are picky and routinely don’t eat for 24 hours even when nothing is wrong.

Skin rashes, ear infections, shaking head, scooting on the behind can all be symptoms of allergies and generally need some intervention. So these should be seen sooner rather than later. Animals can be expert at hiding symptoms so by the time we see something, chances are that the symptoms have been there for a while.

Wounds, lacerations, cat bites, or other trauma should be seen right away. Many times if we see these early they can be treated with medications and surgery can be avoided. If they are left longer, the more likely surgery will be required to heal properly.

Urinating in strange places can be medical or behavioral. But almost always needs a urine test to rule out medical issues. An animal that is previously potty trained then starts urinating inside or in strange places means something is going on. And if you are coming into the clinic about urine issues try not to let the dog relieve himself before you make it inside.

When in doubt call to ask–we get these kinds of questions all the time. And if you are worried enough to call, it may be a good idea to come in.

Holiday Boarding

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

Wow can you believe it is almost Thanksgiving already! We are quickly filling up for Holiday boarding. So if you have plans away from home that don’t include your pets call soon for reservations. For dogs we have 6 indoor 4′x6′ runs and several large cages. We have lots of soft blankets and dog beds as well so Fido can be comfy and cozy. Our dogs are walked outdoors three times daily (more if needed) and we feed science diet dog food.

For cats we have many cages both large and small–so Fluffy can be comfortable whether he is outgoing or nervous. Our cats are kept upstairs away from the noise of the dogs. We have many cat toys available for hours of enjoyment. Litter boxes are changed twice daily and again we feed science diet cat food.

For boarding animals we require that vaccines are current and will need proof of that from a licensed vet. We can give medications as needed and perform other medical treatments as required as well. And should the weather turn for the worse–Don’t worry–I have a 4 wheel drive and I’m not afraid to use it! So don’t worry–your pets will be taken care of no matter what! My husband and I made many trips in last year even with 4 feet of snow!

Old Age is NOT a Disease.

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

One of the things I hear most often is declining a treatment or procedure because an animal is “too old”. There is no such thing! All animals age differently just as people do.  My father at 76 is still able to out-hike me! The same is true of our animals. And there are definitely things we can do to help slow the progression of aging. One of the most important is yearly blood work. Pets still retain a vast ability to hide symptoms. Therefore once a symptom is noticeable there is already damage done. Often blood work can reveal early changes and treatments can be done to correct or change the outcome.

Another important aspect of continued health in old age is dental care. Our teeth are actually very important to other body systems. An infected mouth can lead to heart disease, kidney and liver disease, and pancreatic problems. It is also important to remember that animals will generally not show any pain related to periodontal disease. They will continue to eat regardless. But based on human studies, periodontal disease is painful. Chronic pain can cause changes in the hormone levels and can lead to various problems. Regular dental care is extremely important to long life for our pets!

Diet is another factor that is important for our geriatric pets. Just as our nutritional needs change as we age, so do our pets. And every pet is an individual so diet choices need to be made based on each individual’s health needs. There are specific diets made for many health problems. Calorie needs will change as a patient ages or with different disease processes as well.

Arthritis is a condition that happens to almost every being as it ages. It’s just a fact of life that cartilage and bones start to wear out over time and become painful. Small animals like cats may not show the symptoms as obviously. One study of x-rays taken of cats for various reasons showed that over 92% of cats over age 10 had obvious signs visible on the x-ray. Larger dogs will often show very obvious signs of arthritis. Fortunately we have a wide variety of ways to help with arthritis. These can include nutritional, holistic (such as acupuncture), medical, and surgical. Often we use a combination of nutritional aids and medicines to get the best outcome with the least side effects.

So in closing please remember that the geriatric years can be some of the most rewarding. With new information our pets are living longer and healthier lives. If you have the privilege of living with a senior dog or cat feel free to contact me for more information to make the senior years happy ones.

Helping Your Pets This Summer

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

Summer brings new challenges to your pet’s lives. They depend on you for all their needs.

Here are some helpful reminders for a safe, happy and healthy summer for your pets:

Traveling in Cars -

  • Short Trips- A vented car in the shade on a sunny day of even 78 can warm up to 90 degrees very quickly. A car left in direct sunlight on the same day can reach in excess of 140 degrees in minutes! Animals can succumb to heatstroke in as little as 15 minutes.  Dogs can’t cool off like we can. Remember they are wearing fur coats at all times. Plus their skin doesn’t sweat. They cool off by panting—but this also dehydrates them quickly. Long-haired or short-faced breeds are much more prone to heat stroke.
  • Long Trips- If your pet is not used to car travel it can be a very anxious trip. You need to consider how you will take care of the animal during all parts of the trip. If it is hot out will you be stopping for lunch? Leaving the pet in the car even for a short lunch can cause problems. How about potty breaks? Does the car have air conditioning? Where will you be spending the night? There are many pet-friendly hotels available now but these need to be determined before setting off. Also some state and national parks do not allow pets, even if they stay in the car.

At Home -

  • Water should be available both inside and out at all times. And make sure to change the outdoor water regularly in case of bugs, leaves, and dirt that may get in it.
  • Many common plants can be toxic to pets—for good information check out this website for types: http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/index.html
  • Slug bait is very common this time of year and can be dangerous for our pets. Slug and snail bait is commonly shaped in pellets and flavored with molasses. A very small amount of bait is needed for toxicity. There are pet-safe alternatives.
  • For indoor only cats, summer can be a time for escape. Often we accidently leave windows or doors open and the cat will start to explore. Be aware of this especially during holidays or when there is a gathering of people. Another good reason for a HomeAgain type microchip identification implant.

Exercise -

  • Summer is a great time to get out and exercise. But we have to be cautious on how exercise is approached. Short faced breeds such as pugs, bulldogs, and Pekinese have a lot harder time with exercise if they are not properly conditioned. Also overweight and long-haired breeds cannot tolerate exercise as well as others. It is always best to exercise in the cooler parts of the day. Remember to bring water for your dogs on hikes. Also if hiking in rough areas, dog booties can really save a dog’s feet from injury.  They do hike barefoot after all.
  • Swimming can be a wonderful exercise for many dogs. But there are some precautions to take. First—not all dogs enjoy swimming. So if your dog is a non-swimmer don’t force the issue. Second—even though dogs can be very good swimmers they can still get into trouble, especially in a fast moving river or past the shallows in a lake. A pet floatation device is a good idea for many swimming dogs.
  • Third—if your dog is swimming in a pool, make sure they know how to get out when they are done.

Holidays-

  • Holidays can be very stressful for our pets. Often times there are many extra people around, open doors, and fireworks. Consider how your pet reacts to these stresses and plan for them before they arrive. Generally a quiet room or crate is the best area during high activity times. If your dog is overly sensitive to fireworks there are medications your veterinarian can prescribe to take the edge off.
  • Barbecues can entice even the best behaved dog. Unfortunately, getting a lot of different foods can cause gastric upset and even pancreas issues. Making sure to keep the human food for the humans can avoid tummy upset for our four legged friends.

EPA Advisory on Topical Flea Treatments

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

U.S. and Canada to Increase Scrutiny of Flea and Tick Pet Products

Release date: 04/16/2009

Contact Information: (News media only) Dale Kemery, 202-564-7839/4355 / kemery.dale@epa.gov (Other inquiries: Doug Parsons, 202-564-0341 / parsons.douglas@epa.gov

(Washington, DC – April 16, 2009) The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency is intensifying its evaluation of spot-on pesticide products for flea and tick control for pets due to recent increases in the number of reported incidents. Adverse reactions reported range from mild effects such as skin irritation to more serious effects such as seizures and, in some cases, the death of pets.

Flea and tick products can be appropriate treatments for protecting your pets and your family’s health because fleas and ticks can transmit disease. While many people use the products with no harm to their pets, EPA recommends that pet owners take precautions when using these products. People should carefully follow label directions and monitor their pets for any signs of an adverse reaction after application, particularly when using these products for the first time. Pet owners may also want to consult a veterinarian about the responsible and effective use of flea and tick products.

Incidents with flea and tick products can involve the use of spot-on treatments, sprays, collars and shampoos. However, the majority of the incidents reported to EPA are related to flea and tick treatments with EPA-registered spot-on products. Spot-on products are generally sold in tubes or vials and are applied to one or more localized areas on the body of the pet, such as in between the shoulders or in a stripe along the back. This advisory pertains only to EPA-registered spot-on flea and tick products; these products have an EPA registration number on the label.

Health Canada has identified similar concerns about the use of spot-on flea and tick products. Health Canada and EPA will meet shortly with spot-on product manufacturers to address the issue, including whether further restrictions are necessary to protect the health of pets.

EPA recommends that veterinarians use the National Pesticide Information Center’s Veterinary Pesticide Adverse Effects Reporting portal to report incidents: http://npic.orst.edu/vet

More information on pet products and safety tips: http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/health/pets.htm